* Crews will be clearing overhanging trees
* Rejuvenating shrubs
* Planting trees
* Ironwood -- Ostrya Virginiana
* The Real Christmas Tree
* Recycling Christmas Trees
* Landscaping for winter energy conservation
* Frost damage to new tree growth
* Growing zones for wind protection
* White pine (Pinus strobus)
* American Linden or Basswood
* Growing zones of wind protection
* White pine (pinus strobus)
* Spraying for Spring tree pests
* Use herbicides wisely
* Dogwood: Their bark is impressive
* Late frost can injure tender shoots
* Yes, Virginia, we can grow apricots in North Dakota
* Official Arbor Day in North Dakota is first Friday in May
* Christmas trees will be picked up by city crews
* Family Forest Fund is in lean times
* Trees and deicing salt
* Winterburn can be a problem this spring
* Fallen trees: A natural river occurrenace

By Vernon Quam
City Forester

The City Street Department Crews will be conducting annual tree branch clearing
in the Northwest and Southwest sections of the city.  Tree and shrub branches
that are overhanging streets and alleys in these areas will be removed prevent
interference with traffic and street maintenance equipment.  

City Ordinances state that trees must be 16 feet high above the curb to curb. 
This includes not only boulevard trees but trees in yards that have branches
extending over the street.   

In alleys, overhanging branches of trees must be 16 feet high and a minimum of
20 feet wide to allow city  access and garbage pickup equipment.

Tree branches interfering with the view of Traffic signs and signal clearance
shall be removed so as to be easily viewed within a 100 feet of the sign or
signal. Any tree or shrub branches affecting vision obstructions at street and
alley corners.

Other things that City Crews will watch for include:

1.	Any totally dead branches or partially dead branches above the clearance
zones should be removed.  Once the lower branches are removed these dead
branches may lose support and fall later.

2.	Any trees that have signs of hollowness in the trunk.  These trees should be
removed completely.  The city forester will be notified to check out the tree
and before the removal process.

3.	Any trees with stubs left from prior pruning will be removed to a healthy
crotch.  These stubs maybe dead or dying back and /or have flushes of growth
that are weakly attached to the branch and subject to easy breakage in wind or
storm. 

90% of the trees on the boulevard are American elm, green ash, boxelder, silver
maple, linden, cottonwood or other poplar type.  The above typical pruning
policy will be followed, with the exotic trees that require significant
pruning.  If you live in this area and have a concern you can call the city
forester to check out the tree and decide the course of action.

It is the homeowner’s responsibility to maintain the trees.  When this
responsibility is neglected, it becomes the duty of the city to clear
overgrowth that threatens public safety.  In some cases the only answer is the
removal of the tree or shrub.  This is a clearance procedure and should not be
mistaken for a complete pruning of the tree.  If this is what you expect, have
your trees pruned by a local tree service.  

By Vern Quam, Jamestown City Forester

In early spring, we focus on pruning of trees that shouldn’t be pruned during
the summer. These trees are more susceptible with open wounds to active insect
or disease pests. But early spring is the best time to rejuvenate shrubs and
hedges. Pruning all branches down to a height of 3 to 4 inches may seem severe,
but is the best way to rejuvenate or renovate a leggy shrub or hedgerow. This
is the best season for renovation while the shrub is still dormant up to just
before the sap starts to rise from the roots. Removal of the dormant wood
forces the plant to produce a flush of new stem growth. This new growth is
thicker and with an established root system, energy is put into the shoot and
leaf growth. 

In grad school at NDSU, I conducted shrub renovation in a windbreak at three
different periods of time, early spring, early summer and early fall. The best
regrowth was the early spring cutting and the worst was the early summer
cutting. Now this practice of severe cut back is beneficial for shrubs but
unacceptable when pruning trees. Severe cutting back of tree branches is called
topping and creates problem and weaker regrowth. 

Shrub renovation can be an answer if your hedge is leggy or top-heavy with
growth that shades out branches near the ground. Renovation allows sun exposure
to penetrate lower buds and a thicker more self-facing shrub. Many shrubs
compete with each other within a hedge and open spots or holes appear. I some
cases, disease and/or insect pests move into weakened wood and causes further
dieback. 

An example is fireblight or webworm in cotoneaster. Cotoneaster is an excellent
hedge shrub. They are easily pruned into a dense rectangular hedge or rounded
single shrub and produce an excellent fall color. Since fireblight and webworm
may attack in random and inconsistent sections, the perfect hedge can become a
polka dot with holes. Many renovate during the summer when the yellowing or
browning occurs which is ideal for spreading of the disease to newly open
wounds. Renovation in these cases is to wait until winter when the bacterial
disease is dormant and fresh wounds will cure out over winter. 

The problem with fireblight in cotoneaster hedges is excessive pruning during
the summer months and opening fresh wounds for disease and pest to enter and
feed on growing branches. The alternative is to do the first pruning now before
the sap rises. Then only prune when the temperature is warm and dry. 

Bees and birds transfer Fireblight successfully when conditions are humid and
moist. Avoid pruning during these conditions and follow each pruning by
spraying with an approved pesticide or water and chlorine bleach. Use less than
1% of the solution with chlorine or you may see chemical damage. Remember not
to use the same sprayer that you used to spray herbicides. I have had several
calls where the homeowner thought they had a fire blight out break and it was
residues of round up. Limit your pruning to one during the summer months and
one in late August-September before fall. 

If you decided to renovate spring flowering shrubs, such as lilacs, spireas,
chokecherries, etc. this year, remember you will not have flowers this year.
You can select certain stems to preserve flowers and cut back others. This will
allow you to maintain some color during renovation. The following year the rest
of the shrub can be cut back. 

The gardener always gets antsy to get out and garden in March & April when the
ground is still frozen. Pruning is one activity best done before the sap rises
in both trees and shrubs.

By Vernon Quam, City Forester

You wouldn’t think it possible that research could improve on how to dig a hole
and plant a tree. But then how many of you realize that in a successful,
healthy, mature tree, the tissue mass in the root system is equal to the tissue
mass above ground in what we can see. Ongoing research has shown that roots are
important for the tree standing upright as well as absorption of water and
nutrients. It is well then to make sure we plant the tree properly to avoid any
root growth problems. 

The size of the hole is very important in growth and expansion a healthy root
system. Just a few years ago, it was a common recommendation to dig a hole 2
times the size of the root system. So if we had a tree the measured 2 feet
across then you would dig a hole 4 feet across and you would have at least room
for the tree to grow out a foot on all sides. In most cases, short cuts are
taken to dig a hole big enough to fit the root system and force the roots
hanging out into the hole. Research has found that this type of practice causes
roots to circle around in the hole and as the trunk and roots grow the tree is
strangled and stability of the tree is weakened. 

Current research recommends that a larger area around the tree should be tilled
up or deeply aerated. The size of tilled area will vary with the limitations of
the site, i.e. boulevard Vs park or open yard. A good estimate would be a 20 x
20-ft area to allow root penetration and growth past the edge of the hole. This
is especially important in areas where soils have been compacted and on new
construction sites. This is not an unreasonable recommendation when you thick
about your goal of having a large healthy shade tree someday. 

Soils also make a difference to the size of the hole. Digging a hole in clay
soil is always a challenge and providing drainage a bigger challenge. In hot
dry weather, the tree must grow in a baked brick and in wet weather usually a
clay water holding kettle. In digging the hole the shovel will create an
interface or wall along the edges. This interface can prevent new roots from
growing over into the soil beyond and causes circling roots and future
problems. The hole in the clay soil should be wider. Break up the interface on
the outside edge of the hole and till the soil out from the hole to allow roots
to grow outside of the hole. 

Sandy soils are more forgiving and have more pore space for air. The one
problem is that water moves quickly through the soil and dries out. The hole in
the can be smaller as interfaces are not created as easily. Amend the soils
with organic matter such as compost to help maintain the moisture level. The
best soil mixture is a sandy loam soil but is not always available. 

Hole depth is the next consideration and in the past 1-2 feet was common to
make sure the tree wouldn’t fall over or move too much in the wind. Another
practice was to bury the tree to cover the graft or that ugly knob just above
the roots. Research has proven that you are actually burying the tree not
planting it. Holes should be shallower so that the subtle zone between the root
and stem is at ground level after planting. 

To dam or not! After the planting is completed it was always a recommendation
to build a dam around at the edge of the hole. This was built to collect and
hold water or rain to soak into the soil. If you have a droughty soil or
conditions the dam is still a valuable practice. The problem in sandy soils is
that excess water will wash the dam away or seep through. If you are planting
in clay soils, the dam may increase water drainage. It may still be valuable in
a dry year. 

Mulch is coming back and research has found there are many benefits to newly
planted trees. First, it shades the soil and reduces the evaporation of soil
moisture. This creates a cooler soil benefiting the growth of root hairs that
is the site for most of the water and nutrient absorption. Organic mulches like
woodchips eventually decay and adds more nutrients to the soil. Finally,
mulches reduce weed competition with the young tree for water and nutrients. 

No fertilizer is recommended at planting except a root starter formulation or a
phosphorus fertilizer. These fertilizers are referred under names such as Bone
Meal and Root Starter. Look at the formulation with the three numbers such as
10:20:10 or 10:15:10 where the middle number is higher than the other numbers.
These numbers stand for the percentage of N: P: K or Nitrogen: Phosphorus:
Potassium. 

In a nutshell, 1. Dig wider, shallower holes, 2. Provide mulch 3. Fertilize
with a phosphorus fertilizer and 4. Water first month every 3-5 days and once
every 7-10 days afterward. 

By Vernon Quam, City Forester

Ironwood is a little known tree species native to stream banks of eastern North
Dakota and extends as far west as Barnes County. Also known as American Hop
hornbeam its full ranges from the Black Hills of South Dakota east to Nova
Scotia, south to Florida and back west to eastern Texas. It’s easy to
understand how ironwood got its name. The wood has the reputation of being the
hardest of northern forest trees. It is harder than Oak or Ash and according to
one lumberjack in Minnesota swore he saw sparks while chopping with an ax. The
hardness of the wood indicates that it is a very slow growing tree. 

The tree is small in stature and slow growing as an understory tree. As an
understory species, the Ironwood is an excellent shade tree but also does well
in full sun on city boulevards. The two State Champion trees are located in
Fargo with measurements as follows: 
Tree#1 Tree # 2 
Trunk Circumference 3 feet 5 inches 3 feet 2 inches 
Tree Height 33 feet 33 feet 
Crown Spread 34 feet 39 feet 

The leaf resembles the elliptical shape, sawtooth serration along the leaf
margins and a rough texture give the impression of this is an elm leaf. The
hops shaped seedpod clusters tell you immediately that this is not an elm. The
bark gray to brown color has a shreddy appearance similar to shagbark hickory.
The Ironwood is actually in the Birch family and prefers moist, fertile,
well-drained sandy loam soils. 

It is in the fall that this background tree really stands out. The prominent
seedpods stand out in contrast to the late summer green foliage. The foliage
changes into bright shades of yellow to orange to create a luminescent effect
in the landscape. 

Ironwood can be a hard tree to start from seed and requires a 3-5 month cold
treatment or cold stratification before germinating. Establishment of young
seedlings to new site can also have a low success rate. It is for these reasons
we don’t see more Ironwood planted. There are several homes in Fargo with
Ironwood planted on the boulevard and are now good sized trees. 

Ironwood is a good consideration as a small tree for planting on the boulevard
and in the yard. Another tree presented for our landscape consideration.

By Vern Quam, City Forester

There are between 25-30 million real Christmas trees sold in the United States
every year. There are about 330,000 trees sold over e-commerce or mail order
catalogs. The attractiveness of real trees is the desire to have fresh smelling
tree that brings past memories of family Christmases and creating new memories.


The new memory of traveling out to a Choose-n-Cut tree farm with young
children. Climbing over snow banks to find the best shaped tree. Then cutting
the tree yourself and hauling it back to the car, tying it to the roof.
Stopping to rest with a cup of hot apple cider in a warming house with music
and the smell of balsam fir, apple spice and scented candles. The experience
continues with the trip back home singing carols in the car. Unloading and
trimming of the tree and placement in the tree stand all live in my memory. The
smell of the evergreen tree as the snow melts from its branches all create a
simple sense of newness inside. 

Old memories of Christmas tree ornaments from long past and current seasons.
Christmas lights that replaced the candles of old. The star or angel that sits
at the top of the tree looking down at all the seasons activities. Memories of
decorating in the past with brother, sisters and family. These are only
beginnings to seasonal flavors that would be tasted. 

But you say aren’t those artificial trees easier to take care of …no water and
no falling needles. It’s a shame to cut down that living tree for a short term
existence. What is the environmental friendly thing to do? Real Trees are
renewable, recyclable resource. Artificial trees contain non-biodegradable
plastics. Eighty percent of artificial trees are manufactured in China. Where
as there are about 500,000 acres of Christmas trees growing in the United
States. Each acre provides the daily oxygen requirements of 18 people. There
are about 21,000 Christmas tree growers in the United States and over 100,000
people employed in the industry. 

The real Christmas tree good for the environment, the economy and good for
memories. When purchasing a Christmas tree here are a few helpful hints to
watch for: 

1. Pull lightly on the needles. They should be tightly attached to the branch 

2. Shake the tree vigorously of bounce the butt on the ground. If green needles
fall, look further. 

3. The tree should have a fresh green color 

4. Buy before the lot has been picked over 

5. Fir and pine hold needles much better than spruce 
These hints will help assure that you have gotten a fresh, living tree that
will not dry out and drop needles. 

When you get the tree home, here are some suggestions to help you keep the tree
in a fresh condition longer: 

1. Cut the butt diagonally about an inch above the original cut to aid
absorption of water 

2. A tree preservative can be added to the water and will add some fire
protection. Adding Seven-up or aspirin to the water has been found to keep the
trees vessels open for better water absorption and the sugar is a food for the
tree. 

3. Immediately store in a cool shady place with the butt end submerged in
water. 

4. Mist the foliage daily until the tree is put to use 

5. Regardless of the stand, keep butt submerged in water at all times. 

6. Make sure the tree is away from fireplaces, heaters, TV’s, air ducts,
radiators or other hot areas. Keep it out of walkways. 

7. Turn off tree lights when no one will be in the room for any length of time.


8. Keep lighted candles and other open flames away from the tree 

9. Check lights and cords for loose connections or frayed wire. 

10. Avoid accumulations of wrapping paper near the tree. 

11. Don’t overload electrical circuits. 

12. Keep metal foils icicles and tinsel out of light sockets. 

13. Recycle the tree at the end of the Christmas holiday by using it as an
outdoor wildlife shelter or bird feeder. 

Following these tips will help make your holiday more enjoyable, safer and
increase the longevity of your Real Christmas tree. 

Vernon Quam, City Forester

After the Christmas season doesn’t have to be the end of a useful Christmas
tree. The tree has many benefits to wildlife use in the coming winter months.
The tree can be stuck into the snow bank to view songbirds and squirrels that
may use the tree for cover. Bread scraps can be hung from the branches. Better
yet, take a pine or spruce cone and place peanut butter between the scales of
the cone and roll it in birdseed mix. The cones can be hung on the tree and
birds will visit throughout the winter. 

In spring the needles will drop and provide excellent mulch around evergreen
shrubs and trees. The needles are acidic and assist in nutrient up take by the
roots. The rest of the tree can be taken to the City Baler to the branch pile
where it will be ground and used in the compost mix. This process completes the
recycling circle from the soil sprang the tree and now after its harvested
decorated and reused as compost to enhance the soil. 

The City of Jamestown will provide Christmas tree pickup during the week of
January 3. The trees are picked up and shoved through a wood chipper that
reduces the bulk of the tree and produces woodchips that will become mulch for
new tree plantings next spring. These woodchips will hold moisture in the soil
and prevent competing weeds from getting established. 

Christmas trees must be placed on the curb on the front of the house for the
City pick up. There are a few rules to follow: 1. Please remove plastic bags or
coverings and 2. No lights, ornaments or tree stands should be left. If these
are run through the chipper damage can occur to the blades and the machine.
Your cooperation is appreciated and thanks for recycling.

By Vernon Quam
City Forester


When the temperatures drop down below 0 degrees and windchills are 
between -20 to -50 degrees, then heating bills are bound to rise. 
Energy conservation can be more than more insulation and turning 
the lights off. Efficient landscaping can address energy 
conservation as well. 

Studies since the 1940's have shown that trees planted as windbreaks 
can reduce energy costs anywhere from 8 to 15% no matter what type 
of fuel used. This is important whether you live out on the open 
farmstead or an unprotected section of town. Residential areas that 
are devoid of boulevard and yard trees and no windbreaks or natural 
wooded areas to the north and west are losing more energy than homes 
in older neighborhoods with 40-50 foot trees and well-landscaped 
yards. 

So wind protection can be accomplished in your yard by 
placing one or more tall trees on the north and west sides of your 
house. This will help push the winter prevailing winds up an over 
your house and better yet use evergreen trees such as spruce and 
pine combinations to make a denser wind block and winter color. 

The planting of trees on the east, south and west sides are important 
for summer shading and reduced air conditioning costs. The key is to 
look at trees with a more open branching system that allows winter 
sun in to help heat the house. Examples may include oaks, Ohio 
buckeye, butternut and black walnut, hackberry, Kentucky 
coffeetree, honeylocust and resistant elm varieties.

The next areas to look at are the foundation plantings of your home. 
Shrubs or vines can act as an added layer of insulation with the 
creation of a semi dead air space between the house and the plants. 
The most efficient type of plants would be densely branched shrubs or 
evergreen shrubs. Vines that are allowed to grown over large areas 
of the house can be effective. 

Developers should keep these energy conservation ideas in mind when 
planning a housing development. A windbreak planting on the north and 
west sides of the entire development. If there are existing 
windbreaks or wooded areas consider protecting these areas from 
construction and design around them. Provide a cost incentive of 
buying two to three evergreen trees for each yard as the homes are 
built. Remember when trees are planted for energy conservation, 
they don't cost, they pay. 

Vernon Quam, City Forester

The unseasonable weather last week was brief but left a reminder that no matter
how hardy trees are that young leaves are still susceptible to temperatures in
the mid-20 ‘s. This is true of ash trees and a few other trees. Frost injure
can be identified by leaves that turn black. Don’t get too excited about
removing the tree yet. Ash trees leaf out later than many other trees and
escape exposure to freezing temperatures in most years. The other tree leaves
have been exposed and more resistant to the frost. Trees have back-up buds or
subtenant buds for situations as late frost. Subtenant buds remain dormant
until needed and then triggered to put out a second flush of new leaves.
Unfortunately it will be a couple more weeks befor shade. Some trees and shrubs
have several subtenant buds to overcome repeated injury. The bad side is that
the tree expends a large amount of energy to produce the buds and leaf out and
there is a shorter time for energy production (photosynthesis). 

Reports have been coming in on injury to new ash leaves. The trees with frost
injury are usually single trees out in the open rather than those closely
surrounded by other trees. Trees in larger open spaces are exposed to cooler
temperatures that settle in lower areas. Trees in groups emit radiant heat
during the frost period which protects neighboring trees, shrubs and other
plants. 

Fruiting trees where flowers are just open may be vulnerable to frost injury.
In apple trees, each flower borne in a cluster opens at different times. The
first bloom to open is referred to as the king flower and has the potential to
produce the largest sized fruit. Since the king flower opens the earliest it is
more prone to be damaged by frost. If the king flower is injured, production of
larger fruit is transferred to the several secondary flowers in the cluster.
Other plum or native cherries in the Prunus family bloom all at the same time
and injury would reduce the fruit significantly to completely for that year. 

How to prevent frost injury can be easy for lower growing perennials or
vegetable gardens by covering with a blanket. This process holds the radiant
heat from the ground and plants in and around the plants. This is difficult to
do for a 30 ft. plus green ash tree. For the most part, the tree will re-leaf
out and by general care will help the tree through the shock period. 

by Vernon Quam, City Forester

The American linden is growing as a favorite tree planted on boulevard and in
yards. The Linden has a heart shaped leaf, dark green color on the top surface
while a lighter green below. The leaf margins have a fine toothed serration and
adds a finer texture to and overall large leafed coarse texture canopy. The
branching of most lindens is pyramidal at a younger age changing to a more
upright oval form at maturity. Usually around mid to late June, flower clusters
suspended by lime green seed leaf open and release a beautiful fragrance
through the neighborhood. Later, small seed or nutlets are produced from the
seedleaf and drop to the ground. 

The nectar produced by the linden flowers is very attractive to bees. “Bees,
when the Lindens bloom, forsake all others and cleave only unto these flowers”
as expressed in the book “A Natural History of Trees” by Donald Peattie.
Several years ago while working for the North Dakota Forest Service, I ran
across the state champion American Linden at Lidgerwood, ND. The tree was over
80 feet tall and loaded with flowers that perfumed the whole north end of town.
As I got closer to the tree you could hear the hum of bees collecting nectar
from the flowers. The linden nectar is desired by beekeepers for the white
color and strong flavor in the honey. 

The American linden is native to North Dakota in river forests on the middle
flood plains. Receiving adequate moisture year round but water logged on the
bank’s edge. On the boulevard and in the yard, lindens prefer a good dark loam
soil with good drainage. There a number of selected cultivated varieties or
cultivars of American and its European cousin the little-leaf linden available
at nurseries and greenhouses. The Boulevard linden is a newer introduction by
Bailey’s Nurseries in St. Paul that has a more upright growth form tailored for
narrower boulevards. While the Frontyard linden is a broader shade tree. The
Redmond linden selected by a nursery in Fremont, Nebraska has be the idea
pyramidal tree for the last thirty years. 

No matter how you look at the linden it is a valuable tree for its attractive
form or the intense shade it produces. If you are interested in planting trees
for your boulevard you can contact the City Forester at 252-5900 for the
brochure “Recommended Tree Species for Jamestown Boulevards”. It lists
recommended trees and those not allowed on boulevards. 

Have you ever experienced driving under snowy conditions where visibility is 
about an eighth of a mile or less? Visibility was poor; you were lucky to be 
able to see brake light of cars in front. The wind tugs at your car. The 
feeling would creep in of whether you were actually on the road or  traveling 
into white space. When you came into the protection zone of a windbreak or 
tree planting  near the road. Then all of a sudden conditions would change, 
the visibility was better, the wind  was reduced and the road was ice-free. As 
soon as you passed the section of trees, the winds and  snow returned. Then 
you have realized the protection of a living snow fence. 

The earliest records of planting trees as a living snow fence were done along 
railways in North  Dakota. The Great Northern Railroad planted trees along its 
right of way between Grand Forks and  Williston in 1905. It was reported four 
years later that 96,000 trees and shrubs were planted and  survival rate was 
better than 80 percent. By 1915, the Railway Company had planted over 500,000  
trees and shrub seedlings.  In early prairie settlement, living snow fences 
continued to play an important role as windbreaks to  protect fields and 
farmsteads. 

Today, living snow fences provide safer driving conditions on highways. They 
control blowing snow  conditions, which come up suddenly and cause visibility 
problems. Ground drifting causes visibility  problems along with icing of the 
roadway. For lighter weight vehicles, wind protection is important  under good 
conditions. Who can put a price on safety when lives are at stake? 

A well-designed snow fence should also reduce the need for snow removal. Snow 
fence plantings will  collect snow away from travel lanes and hold it where it 
is more manageable. Reduced use of snow  removal equipment means less 
equipment costs and labor costs. In Wyoming, it has been estimated  that snow 
fences save up to $4,933 per mile every year or $246,650 over the life of each 
planting. 

 The average lifetime of most wooden structural snow fences is approximately 5 
to 10 years and  maintenance is an annual cost in labor to repair and 
materials. It is estimated that tree and shrub  plantings are approximately 10 
times cheaper to install and maintain than slatted snow fences. The  average 
lifetime of a living snow fence is 35 to 50 years with regular weed control 
while young.  The living snow fence also has the advantage in height as well, 
reaching 15 to 50 feet depending on  the tree species used. 

 This fall, several green ash trees were planted on the north side of the 
Jamestown Waste Water  Treatment Plant as a living snow fence to provide wind 
protection and snow collection away from  roadways and buildings on the site. 
The trees were donated by the US Corps of Engineers at Pipestem  Dam and a 
grant made by the Chamber of Commerce Beautification Committee. The 10 feet 
high trees  were planted into a staggered design to maximize wind protection 
and growing space. In the spring  of 2003, lilac and dogwood shrubs will be 
planted around the trees to provide low level wind  protection and reduced 
weed control needs. Woodchips will be used around the trees as mulch to  
provide weed control, prevent soil moisture loss and added organic matter. The 
Chamber of Commerce  awarded the City of Jamestown its Beautification Annual 
Award for 2002. 

Future benefits hope for may include energy use reduction with reduced winter 
heat losses. A snow  trap away from main roadway to the plant. As all tree 
plantings are established, so wildlife will  nest, seek cover and food in the 
windbreak. The lilacs will provide attractive flowers and scented  fragrance. 
Dogwoods will provide attractive red stems in winter against the white snow. 
The use  of woodchip mulch around the tree creates a more sustainable planting 
and one that completes the  circle of recycling. We will learn from this 
planting about Snow Control and Environmental  Stewardship. 

The greatest part of this project was the inter departmental cooperation 
between Waste Water and  Forestry, and inter agency cooperation between the 
Corps of Engineers, Chamber of Commerce-  Beautification Committee and 
Volunteers. 

Vernon Quam, City Forester

There is no tree species that is so tied to the early growth and survival of
the early colonies and then the United States of America than the white pine.
Due to its light weight and long straight trunks it became the first valuable
export of the early New England colonies. The English could not find a tree
fitting for a one piece mast. Scotch pine had to be pieced together for ship
masts. Most of the desirable Scots pine was growing in Prussia, Russia and
other European rival lands. White pine trees and seeds were brought back to
England but failed due to the climate. That made the only source, the new world
more important. 

The continued interest cause widespread harvesting into the first 100 years of
the United States. Pioneers used to say that a squirrel could travel a
squirrel’s lifetime without ever coming down out of the White Pines. It was in
the late 1800’s, that losses of the great eastern virgin white pine stands that
spurred the great conservationist movement with Theodore Roosevelt and
development of the US Forest Service and National Parks. It took a whole
century before much of these forests would recover and once again be productive
with white pine. 

A strip of virgin white pine was set aside in Little Falls, Minnesota now
called Pine Grove Park. The stand has had some invaders in the understory of
oak, maple and birch and some losses from bark beetle damage. About 25 years
ago while working for the City of Little Falls I had a conversation with an
elderly gentleman in his seventies. He stated that he had played in the park as
a young child and said the trees were tall then. A tree at Dartmouth College
measured as tall as 240 feet. Early settlers were astounded at trees that
averaged 150 feet tall with few branches on the lower 80 feet. The largest
reported white pine in North Dakota is in Fargo with a height of 62 feet and a
trunk circumference of 4 feet. 

The white pine is more common growing in Minnesota than it is in North Dakota.
In fact the white pine prefers acid soil of the east and the few trees growing
in landscapes may experience a yellowing of the needles. There are few white
pine trees growing in the Jamestown area. In most cases the white pine is
planted as an ornamental landscape tree rather than in a production forest or
windbreak planting. The canopy form of the tree is more broad and wide
spreading. There are five needles per fasicle or cluster which gives a finer
texture than most pines. The lighter green colored needles and silvery gray
bark gives an attractive bonsi appearance. 

The white pine is harvested and finds its way into the Christmas tree market
across North Dakota. Again the fine texture and color makes it a favorite
Christmas tree. The branches may be too flexible and not able to support heavy
ornaments. Branches from white pine aree often used in garlands, wreaths and
centerpieces due to their long feathery soft needles. The needles last a long
time without falling when properly watered. White pine is one of the top ten
choices for Christmas trees in the United States. 

By Vernon Quam, City Forester

New spring growth brings out a fresh feeling especially for those confined
indoors during the winter. It is also the season for tree diseases that attack
the young susceptible growth. Many of these disease or other pests are serious
while others are unimportant. I will start with those that are a concern and
will require a spray control. 

Ash anthracnose is a fungus disease that attacks the newly formed leaves and
can cause a spring drop of green leaves. This leaves the tree a very open
canopy and lessens its energy making potential. As the season progresses you
will see speckled leaves that enlarge and cause a curling of the leaf. These
leaves drop before normal leaf drop and the overall appearance of the tree is
sad looking. The fungus can over winter on the seed stalks that will release
their seed. If you see last year’s seed stalks still in your tree, there’s a
good chance it is anthracnose. To control anthracnose, first spray the trees
when the new growth appears with chlorothalonil, which is sold by many brand
names. The second spraying can be done about 2 weeks later. The second attack
is to keep the tree in good health by watering during dry periods and fertilize
with a general shade tree formula. Slow release spikes or granular fertilizers
should be applied at the drip line of the tree not at the base of the trunk.
When leaf drop occurs rake up and dispose of the leaves to remove next year’s
innoculum. 

Rhizosphera needlecast has been a serious problem to spruce trees and
especially to Colorado spruce. The fungus will attack new succulent growth
usually referred to as candle growth. Infected needles do not show any problems
until the following winter and spring. Then needles will turn a bright orange
brown color. For the last twenty years we have had humid wet springs that have
kept the life cycle of this air borne fungus active. Chlorothalonil is the
choice spray for its control as well. Spray the new growth as it emerges from
late May to early June and then 7-10 days later. If conditions are still humid
and damp after the second spraying, spray again for a third time. Spray
infected trees at least twice each spring for the next two seasons and on
healthy tree at least once. 

Apple scab has been a serious problem on apple and flowering crabapples in
recent years. This fungus attacks the young leaves and fruit and can be
protected by using a fungicide such as chlorothalonil, thiophanate-methyl,
propiconazole or mancozeb. There are several trade name products of each of
these chemicals, but one of these names should be in the ingredient list on the
container. Spray on the tree’s foliage every two weeks during prolonged wet or
humid conditions. In the fall, rake up all diseased leaves and fruits. If you
are looking of a resistant variety of flowering crabs: Centurion, Donald Wyman,
Prairifire and Spring Snow. 

by Vernon Quam, City Forester

Everyone wants a nice lawn and garden, and herbicides are very useful in
controlling unwanted plants and weeds. If the herbicides are improperly used
accidents can occur where landscape plants can be injured permanently. June is
the month when herbicides are being used in agricultural fields as well as
lawns. 

It is also the time when herbicide injury shows up on trees and shrubs. Common
symptoms will show the distortion of the leaves at the tips of the branches.
There is a strange elongation of the leaf as if it were made of toffee and
someone pulled and twisted into a cupped shape. The margins of the leaf will
grow out into string like fringes. Leaf color is usually lighter green to
yellow. Young green twigs may also show a “S” curves. It almost looks as if the
tree was growing out of control. On evergreen trees, new needle bundles will be
curved and a light green to brown in color. 

Know the herbicide you are using. If the herbicide controls broadleaf weeds
like dandelions, etc. Remember that deciduous trees are also broadleaf. In this
case watch that these herbicides are kept away from green bark of trees and any
young trees where the bark has not started to form a thick or ridged bark. Do
not spray on sprouts on the tree or on unwanted suckers. Remove suckers by
pruning not by spraying. 

Do not use the same sprayer for herbicides as you do for fungicides or
insecticides. Even three rinses do not always remove all traces of the chemical
used in the sprayer. I have many questions on why fireblight is spreading on
their cotoneaster shrub after each successive spraying. The reason was that it
wasn’t fireblight but herbicide damage. 

Weed and Feed products are handy for care of lawns but become a real problem
when used in flowerbeds and around the trees. In many cases, people forget the
weed control part and see only the feed part of the name. When upward cupping
of leaves occur on a plant and no one has sprayed the yard nearby, nine times
out of ten weed and feed was used as fertilizer. 

Remember pesticides of all kinds are helpful in taking care of the lawn but
remember overuse means that the unused portions will runoff. Runoff into the
curb doesn’t end at the end of the drive. They can move into the environment
and into someone’s water supply. Careful mixing and using only what you need is
important. Watching what formulation you use is important, so that it doesn’t
vaporize and move during warm weather conditions. 

Don’t dispose of older chemicals in the garbage but deliver to the City Baler
or a disposal site. Project Safe Send is a program of the North Dakota
Department of Agriculture that collects unwanted household and farm chemicals
free of charge. They will be setting up a pick up site at the ND Dept. of
Transportation building at 3568 81st Ave. NE, or exit 256 on I-94 (the Woodbury
Interchange), north about ½ mile on the east side of the street. They will
pickup any unwanted chemicals on Wednesday, July 21.

If you are from well south of North Dakota and asked if you were
familiar with the Dogwood. The large white flower on a small tree
would be the first thought. But in North Dakota the hardy dogwoods
are mostly shrubs and the winter bark is the most impressive. 

There are about 45 species of dogwood native to the Northern 
Hemisphere in North America, Europe and Asia. Most of these species
are shrubs or small trees. In the northern Great Plains, there are
3 native and about 5 more that are adaptable. Of the native species
the red osier dogwood is the most common and similar to it is the
adapted bloodtwig dogwood. As the names indicate the stems in winter
have a deep red color. The yellow twig dogwood is a cultivar of the
red osier dogwood that has a bright yellow branches in winter. A 
mixture of red and yellow twig dogwoods will add interest to your
landscape.  These shrubs are also attractive when in leaf, but the
winter color sets them apart. 

The Tatarian dogwood is native to Siberia, Manchuria and northern
Korea has proven to be very hardy for our winter conditions. The 
Tatarian is also popular for its cultivated varieties that have 
variegated leaves or green leaves with white to yellow margins. The
twig color will vary from variety to variety with a coral red to red
to yellow colors. 

The gray dogwood is another native small tree that is hardy for North
Dakota that grows about 12 feet tall and 10 wide. The tree has small 
clusters of white flowers in June and small white fruits on red 
pedicels in September. The gray dogwood has no special twig color but 
is an interesting little tree.

With our winter season sometimes 5 months or longer, the dogwood
should be a consideration for any landscape. 


List of Hardy dogwoods for Our Area:

Tatarian dogwood (Cornus alba)
Cultivars with variegated leaf margins & red stems:
European Variegated dogwood(C. alba 'Argenteo-marginata')
Ivory Halo dogwood(C. alba 'Bailhalo')
Mottled dogwood(C. alba 'Gouchaulti')

Cultivars with green foliage & red stems:
Coral Beauty dogwood(C. alba 'Coral Beauty')
Siberian dogwood (C. alba 'Sibirica')

Cultivars with green foliage & yellow stems:
Bud's Yellow dogwood (C. alba 'Bud's Yellow')
Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea )

Cultivars with variegated leaf & yellow twigs
Silver and gold dogwood, (C. sericea 'Silver and Gold')

Cultivars with yellow twigs
Yellow Twig dogwood (C. sericea 'Flaviramea')

Cultivars with red twigs
Cardinal Red osier dogwood (C. sericea 'Cardinal')
Isanti dogwood (C. sericea 'Isanti')
Kelsey Dwarf dogwood (C. sericea 'Kelseyi')
Bloodtwig dogwood (Cornus sanguinea)
Winter Flame dogwood (C. sanguinea 'Winter Flame')-has yellow-orange fall
color and yellow turning to red twigs

Pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia)-is a small tree to medium shrub with a
layered appearance, red fall color 

Gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa)-is a small tree with gray to red-brown bark,
white flowers are followed by white fruit and red pedicels 

Snow Mantle dogwood (C. racemosa 'Jade')-is a hardy cultivar introduced by
North Dakota State University. 

Spring frosts can cause injury to tender shoots that started growing in 
warmer temperatures and then turn cold.  When temperatures cool down below the
freezing mark, water between the leaf and young stem cells forms ice crystals. 
Water is drawn from the cell and dehydration can occur and injury.

Injury may vary due to slight variation of air temperature with in the tree’s 
canopy.  It is common to see only the buds on lower parts of the tree to be
dead and the rest of the tree to leaf out normally.  Frost injury can cause the
dieback of new stem growth but also injury flower buds of early flowering trees
and plants.  Sometimes the injury may prevent fruit production or may cause
malformation if only partial fertilization occurred.  Borderline tree species
are susceptible for severe injury and dieback.  

Most hardy native trees such as elm are not affected.  The green ash leafs out

later than most trees and avoids most late frosts.  This year with temperatures
in the 80’s, even green ash trees have exposed shoots.  Other environmental
events such as wind, rain, cloud cover all help to lessen the severity of frost
damage.  Radiant heat is given off by nearby buildings or larger trees will
reduce the affects of frost.

Many people are surprised that apricots are hardy enough to grow in North 
Dakota.  The Manchurian apricot, which as the name indicates, is native to
northern China and Korea.  Before you get too excited the fruit is not the 3-4
inch size fruit common to grocery shelves.  The fruit is about 1-1 ½ inches
across.  The taste of the fruit will very from unedible to all right but less
juicy.  They do make an excellent preserve.

The clouds of white and pink flowers are very attractive in early May before
the leaves emerge.  Early bloom can be a problem in years when late frosts
injure flower buds and prevent fruit set.  The flowers are hung solitary on the
branches and are about 1 inch in diameter are fragrant

The leaf buds emerge later and escape danger of frost injury are a medium in
color throughout the growing season.  In fall the foliage changes to a
brilliant orange yellow color becoming a high valued landscape plant.  

Trees with larger and better tasting fruits have been selected and introduced
as cultivars include:

‘Mandan’  an upright tree with pink blossoms. Introduced by the USDA Research
Station at Mandan, ND.

‘Moongold’ a broad tree with white flowers and golden yellow fruits. Introduced
by the University of Minnesota

‘Sungold’ an upright tree with yellow fruits and reddish blush. Introduced by
the University of Minnesota

‘Scout’ a round headed tree with yellow fruits and reddish blush.  Introduced
by Morden Research Station at Morden, Manitoba.

It is important to have more than one apricot tree for fruit production.  Since
some of the trees do not self- pollinate.  So if you buy ‘Sungold’ apricot buy
a ‘Moongold’ apricot to cross pollinate and produce fruit. 

The first Friday in May is Arbor Day in North Dakota.  For many people the day
comes and goes without notice.  Being a forester now for about 23 years, Arbor
Day is a special day to appreciate the gift of trees.  Many people may remember
a day that they were allowed to go outside in the spring to plant a tree and
enjoy the fresh outdoors.  

It should be a pleasant and safe date free from long term frozen precipitation.
 In my past, I’ve been at Arbor Days that had cold north winds with rain
gradually turning to snow.  I’ve seen sunny days without wind and sunburn from
enjoying the day too much.  I’ve seen High School and elementary band uniforms,
fire and police uniforms and military uniforms along with solo renditions of
the Star Spangled Banner.  
Mascots abound representing trees, residents of trees such as cardinals, bears
and squirrels promoting tree planting to young enthusiasts.  

I’ve heard speechs from town leaders, historic people of the past and many in
my own words.  Many times the words were copied, or routine, but many times
they were sincere and involved the recognition of a tireless volunteer with a
mission.  I’d like to close with quotes about the importance of trees play in
our lives:

“ I think that I shall never see a poem and lovely as a tree” Joyce Kilmer

“A people without children would face a hopeless future; a country without
trees is almost as hopeless..” Theodore Roosevelt

“I never before knew the full value of trees.  Under them I breakfast, dine,
write, read, and receive my company”.  Thomas Jefferson

“The creation of a thousand forests is in one acorn”  Ralph Waldo Emerson

“The clearest way into the universe is through a forest wilderness” John Muir

“Planting a tree shows hope for the future”  Charlie Brown

“A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when
be plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit”  Elton
Trueblood

“Plant Trees!” J. Sterling Morton, founder of Arbor Day. 

“Poems are written by fools like me, but only God can make a tree” Joyce
Kilmer

Vernon Quam, City Forester

The City of Jamestown will provide Christmas tree pickup during the week of
January 3.  There are a few rules to follow before setting out your tree.  

1.	The Christmas trees must be placed on the curb on the front of the house 

2.	Please remove plastic bags or coverings

3.	 No lights, ornaments or tree stands should be left on the tree or it will
be left.

We ask you to remove these items to prevent  damage to equipment while
chipping.  The wood chips will be used for mulch around newly planted trees or
for animal bedding.  

The end of  the Christmas season doesn’t have to be the end of a useful
Christmas tree.  The tree has many benefits to wildlife use in the coming
winter months.  The tree can be stuck into the snow bank to view songbirds and
squirrels.  The tree will be used for cover and bread scraps, suet, etc can be
hung from the branches.  Better yet, take a pine or spruce cone and place
peanut butter between the scales of the cone and roll it in birdseed mix.  The
cones can be hung on the tree and birds will visit throughout the winter.  

In spring the needles will drop and provide excellent mulch around evergreen
shrubs and trees.  The needles are acidic and assist in nutrient up take by the
roots.   The rest of the tree can be taken to the City Baler to the branch pile
where it will be ground and used in the compost mix.  This process completes
the recycling circle from the soil sprang the tree and now after its harvested
decorated and reused as compost to enhance the soil. Your cooperation is
appreciated and thanks for recycling.

By Vernon Quam


The Trees for North Dakota Fund originated during the State’s goal of planting
100 million trees into the year 2000.   Funds raised during the Centennial Tree
Program were transfer into a more perpetual project to continue tree planting
projects that benefit North Dakota.  Since then several groups have partnered
with this fund along with the annual tax check off for individual
partnerships.

One program affected by this fund is the Family Forest Grants sponsored by the
North Dakota Forest Service started in 1996.  To date, 90 communities have
received 173 Community Family Forest grants from the trust fund.     

We have locally received approximately $3,000 over a two year period in tree
planting activities at the Louis L’Amour Arboretum.  Children from the
elementary school planted almost 300 trees in two years.  Experiencing the
dedication and enjoyment these children received during these activities is
priceless.  They learned how to plant trees, learned how trees differ from one
another and their importance in providing various benefits to man.  

It is on the verge of reducing the grants available due to less giving through
the Income Tax Check-off donations in recent years.  Tree planting is a part of
North Dakota’s past, its present and future.  The North Dakota Forest Service
invites your continued financial support.  Please enter your voluntary
contribution on the 2005 North Dakota Individual Income Tax Return or send your
donation to the Office of the State Forester, Bottineau, ND 58318-1100 where it
will be deposited in the Trust Fund.  

By Vernon Quam, City Forester

There are great benefits for using deicing salts on streets and sidewalks in
winter. During the summer following, high salt use can cause problems in water
and nutrient uptake for nearby trees. 

A University of Minnesota publication entitled “Minimizing De-Icing Salt Injury
to Trees” addresses the concerns for injury to trees and how to control the
injury. Symptoms include a browning of the leaf margins in late summer. This
year I noticed a similar symptom on about 6 of the trees without sign of a
pest. It was strange since rainfall had kept the trees moist. After reading
this publication I knew exactly what was going on. 

Salt injury to trees will come from two sources, roadway spray or sidewalk
applications. The first source comes from salt applied to the street and car
traffic will create a spray that can travel many feet out from the curb. This
can be commonly seen if you park on any street and see the amazing amount of
dirt collected even after a short time. 
The second and highest concern is the use of de-icing salts on the sidewalks.
Boulevards with trees can act as a drain for melting snow and spring rains. The
salt increases the soil pH or soil chemistry that limits the tree from
absorbing of water and essential nutrients in the soil. 

There are several trees that are sensitive to these conditions and thus the
symptoms and so I feel we have caught it before it becomes a serious lost of
trees. I would ask homeowners and businesses to use de-icing salts sparingly on
sidewalks especially near tree plantings. Use coarse sand instead and limit use
to high-risk areas. Alternatives calcium chloride and calcium magnesium acetate
(CMA) are safe to use around trees and plants. When shoveling and scrapping
snow and ice avoid piling next or near the tree pits. In most cases the salt
content is highly concentrated in these piles and melt-water will go directly
to the tree roots. 

By Vernon Quam

The recent subzero temperatures may have set the stage for concern of
winterburn on conifer trees and shrubs. Winterburn is caused by a drying
condition in the needles of conifers as water is drawn out or transpiration
occurs. This can happen in exposure to the dry subzero weather and winds. As
the days are getting longer so sun exposure will be increasing which increases
transpiration. During the winter the tree can not absorb moisture from the
ground and so gradually the dries up or shows a browning or burn symptom. 

Conifers do have some defenses over the loss of water and to slow the
dehydration of needles. The major defense is the waxy covering over each
needle, protects and prevents the quick loss of water. If you look closely at
the needle of the Colorado blue spruce, there is a bluish-white coating when
rubbed off leave the needle with a green color. This coating is called the
cuticle or waxy protectant. As long as the trees and shrubs go into fall and
winter with good moisture levels, winterburn is not a problem. In the case of
the last two years of drought in later summer, fall watering is a must. If the
soil type is more droughty sandy or sandy loam, supplemental watering will also
be required. 

What can I do now to protect my evergreens? If you are in an area that has full
sun exposure, you could rig up a screen or wrap the trees. Now this needs to go
with reason as it is tough to wrap a 20 foot spruce tree, but easy to wrap or
build a screen for a 4 foot juniper. Burlap is a common covering or wrapping
material used to protect evergreens because it also allows air movement through
it. A screen may involve stapling a section of burlap between two lathes and
placing it to intercept the sunlight. Other areas where winterburn can be a
problem is on the corners of houses where wind speeds increase and drying
occurs due to wind. 

Sunscald is a winter injury that thin barked deciduous trees are susceptible.
You may have read other articles I have written about this occurrence. With
exposure to longer day lengths, the sun’s rays warm up the bark and cells
underneath. They become active and start to grow. Temperature dramatically
changes when the sun goes behind a cloud or sets at the end of the day. A
freezing growing action occurs and the injury becomes a large scar on the south
and west sides of the tree. 

This is the season to make sure that a screen is placed on the south and west
sides of trees in full exposure to the suns rays. This affects apples,
mountain-ash, maples, and young trees with smooth bark such as linden,
honey-locust, etc. In the past, apple orchardists would water down a white
latex paint and paint the south and west sides of the trees. The white color
would reflect the sun’s rays. The problem is the rays are still hitting the
tree and warming up the bark. Whereas, a screen intercepts the sun and keeps
the rays from contact with the bark. 

By Vernon Quam

Are you familiar with the name Henry Miller Shreve? Shreve lived around 1800 
during the major expansion west. Shreve grew up on the Ohio River and supported 
his family by trapping beaver pelts. He became an expert navigator and became 
instrumental in the water transportation advances. One of the major limitations 
to waterway travel was the years of fallen trees or snags that limited or 
increase damage to early steamboat travel. Shreve designed a steamboat, 
Heliopolis, that had a jaw-like device on its bow to pick-up and remove the 
snags to a sawmill on the boat’s deck. The Red River of Texas became a 
navigable river due to Mr. Shreve’s boats. 

Even though water travel has been reduced importance fallen trees are still 
viewed as a hindrance to our small waterways in North Dakota. There is a 
concern that the volume of the trees will impede flood waters and increase 
overflow at peak flow. In last 20 years of research, it has been found that 
large debris acts as a grade control structure upstream controlling high water 
levels. 

Another real concern is soil or bank erosion. Rivers by their nature are pushed 
and pulled by currents and their density into meandering channels. If you take 
time to look at the Pipestem and James River on a may just through town you 
will notice the snake like appearance. Look closer and you find that the 
highest occurrence of bank erosion occurs on the outside of the curves in the 
channel. If you imagine a river as water, soil, plant material, fish etc. you 
can see that the channels move outward as they take the curve. There is mover 
pressure and erosion action on that side of the channel. As the soil gives way 
trees growing along this area also give and fall into the river. Leaving some 
of these trees in the channel actually protect the bank from direct action of 
the moving river currents and allows soil sediments to settle out and shore up 
the bank. 

Just as there are good reasons to keep trees in the river, there are good 
reasons to get them out. Fallen trees the inside of curve of streams can cause 
worse erosion affects down stream. Fallen trees in a city can cause problems of 
storm water movement into the river. Trees and debris move down with the river 
and can collect against bridges. As debris builds up more pressure is placed on 
the bridge supports. 

From a forester’s perspective, since elm trees make up about 40% of the native 
forest along the rivers fallen trees are weakened trees that become habitat for 
Dutch elm and must be removed. 

There are some excellent websites to find out more information on trees and 
river management, just search for the following terms, river, forest, fallen 
tree, management, and snags. By the way Henry Miller Shreve may not be a common 
name for you but the City of Shreveport, Louisiana was named after him.